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72 240 rebuild - Rebuild diary

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  • 72 240 rebuild - Rebuild diary

    I've owned this 72 since 78, parked it long ago but refused to part with it. I finally got around to stripping it down with my son, put it on a rotisserie and then things ground to a halt. Life intervened. But I'm back at it with a vengeance, you may have seen a couple of my posts in the tech section. Tonight i decided to start a continuous post of the rebuild - perhaps it is of interest to OZC members, but more importantly if someone is looking over my shoulder (you) i might actually get it back on the road. I've done most of the welding / replacement of body panels, though nothing to the extant that Noll has taken on (Wow!). i intend to do this mostly through photos but if you have questions or want more details I'm happy to oblige.

  • #2
    3 17 Fr susp 2.jpg
    Front suspension - done. Coil overs, Toyota 4x4 calipers, drilled & slotted rotors. I made the strut rods, mine were almost rusted through. Used salvaged hein joints from a wrecked race truck. Rebuilt the rack & pinion - the bearing on the pinion side had .028" play. Had to machine a new bearing as none are available. Seems tight now.
    3 17 Fr susp.jpg
    The rotisserie was fab'd from two engine stands and some warehouse racking
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      Sorry for the multiple posts of photos - I'm a newbie.


      Over the last couple of days I installed the master cylinders (15/16" 280Z - more volume for the big calipers.
      Also installed all the brake lines, clutch line and fuel lines

      3 17 master cyl.jpg
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        Here's the work at the rear. Rebuilt the emergency brake - replaced the cable (tech post), disassembled, cleaned and greased everything else.
        Lots of tubes there - brakes line, fuel, fuel return and tank vent. The moustache bar is from a 280, installed backwards to accommodate the 3.90 R200 rear end.
        Note the welded panels - I replaced the floors, rocker panels, made inner fenders from trailer fenders, welded in new quarter panels. Along the way I fab'd quite a few bits to strengthen the body (rust-be-gone)

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        • #5
          3 17 rear brk lines 2.jpg
          Another shot of the rear - note the Carter 4070 fuel pump. I have Webers - the carter seems to be the pump of choice - high flow, 4 psi

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          • #6
            ‚Äč
            A closer view of the fuel pump. I'll install a Fram filter between the tank and the pump. Still working out the mounting method.
            Lots of internet chat about how to wire this. I have an oil pressure switch that I'll wire in as a safety. There's a green wire folded back in the fuel gauge harness that may be for an electric pump. It's shown on the wiring diagram for the 72 indicating a fuel pump, and may lead back to the fuse box. Needs more investigation. If anyone has done this please let me know.

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            • #7
              That's where I am as of tonight. Tomorrow I'll start with the diff and see how far I get. Unheated garage so progress slows when it gets really cold.
              Here's the R200 diff next to the original R180:
              3 17 R180 vs R200.jpg
              I've already rebuilt the R200 - new bearings and seals. Gears were fine.

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              • #8
                Following
                I get a kick out of following builds .
                Reminds me of my build almost ten years ago.
                It is somewhere in the annals of this forum.

                Casey

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                • #9
                  Dat240, I wanted to ask you if you could help me out. I see you have a photo of the park brake linkage. If it is still accessible, I was wondering if you could tell me how long the front park brake rod is? (Thats the long rod). Mine is long gone. I will need to make a new one. I was looking for a measurement from the centre of the front clevis pin to the end of the threaded rod. Greatly appreciate it if it's possible. Thanks. Craig

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                  • #10
                    Nice, great to see more people doing build threads!

                    Looks like your Z has also seen its fair share of repairs - out of curiosity what are those large pockets where the seatbelt buckets would usually go for?

                    Regarding the fuel pump, IIRC the YT channel Home Built By Jeff has a vid on the same thing - he wired up an electric pump using the stock unused rear wiring that's tucked into the fuel sender bundle of wires.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Dr.Diesel View Post
                      Dat240, I wanted to ask you if you could help me out. I see you have a photo of the park brake linkage. If it is still accessible, I was wondering if you could tell me how long the front park brake rod is? (Thats the long rod). Mine is long gone. I will need to make a new one. I was looking for a measurement from the centre of the front clevis pin to the end of the threaded rod. Greatly appreciate it if it's possible. Thanks. Craig
                      I had mine handy, hopefully this helps (I don't think they changed them between 240/260) - it's 34cm from the middle of the hole to the end of the rod.

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                      • #12
                        Hi Craig - Noll beat me to it, here's the info on the brake rod. Fairly low tech, 1/4" rod will likely do the trick. pkg rod dwg.jpg

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                        • #13
                          Brake rod as installed:
                          pkg rod.jpg

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                          • #14
                            Re - "out of curiosity what are those large pockets where the seatbelt buckets would usually go for?"

                            I took some structural liberties when I repaired the frame to reduce the chance of future rust so I welded some plate across the pockets where the seat belts attach. The frame under this was also replaced. This will give a stronger seat belt mount as well. I was also considering mounting Honda Prelude seats that I acquired and needed to accommodate the seat rails - that meant adding a box on the driver side (I'm doing this from memory - it's been a while). I may not use the Prelude seats but there's now space for longer rails.

                            A bit of history - if anyone ever owned a Triumph Spitfire you may have experienced "throttle steer". The radius rod from the rear wheel attached to a frame rail behind the seat. The rail was perfectly positioned to gather water and salt. When the inevitable rust happened, the rail would flex under power and the car would turn on its own volition. If left too long the rail failed, the wheel collapsed and really bad things happened. Word got around and I made a bit of cash in high school welding steel tube in the place of the rail. So I tend to look for places that are weak points.

                            floor reinforce 1.jpg floor reinforce 2.jpg

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                            • #15
                              Thanks to Noll and DAT240 for that helpful information on the brake rod. Much appreciated.

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