Gas Tank Rebuild

[zedfoot]

Ont240 , http://gastankexchange.com/

I'm pretty sure that's who did it last time. It did take almost 10 years for it to start leaking. I'm not sure they would have taken the dents out of it. I had to use a hammer and dolly. There were areas where I ground off 3/4" of some kind of filler. I'm glad I split it, because a few years ago the car rolled off a floor jack and crunched the tank a bit. That dis-bonded the urethane coating on the inside of the tank. In this photo you can see how it peeled off.

[zedfoot]

The ultimate solution.

[Ont240]

Quoted today shipped to Canada, $887 CDN plus duty/taxes
My pockets have holes in them!

[zedfoot]

Noll , a reminder of the writeup I did for my tank, rather than hijack your thread. What I would do differently : the way that seam is rolled/knurled/welded/bonded, it's impossible to seperate. I had to cut it off altogether. That didn't leave enough metal to make a lap joint. My MIG welding skills are nowhere near as developed as yours, so I brazed it. It got me through the summer, but last fall I got a couple of pinholes where I had bridged a gap with brass. If I were to do it again, I would first weld about an inch wide strip to the inside of one half, then weld the other half to the resulting backer. This would provide mechanical strength which the brass is not good at. For now, I've rewelded the pin holes, and I will give it another go with the POR15. I was a bit dissspointd that the POR15 didn't prevent this problem. I guess half a tank of gas sloshing around puts a lot of load on that seam.

[Noll]

Noll , a reminder of the writeup I did for my tank, rather than hijack your thread. What I would do differently : the way that seam is rolled/knurled/welded/bonded, it's impossible to seperate. I had to cut it off altogether. That didn't leave enough metal to make a lap joint. My MIG welding skills are nowhere near as developed as yours, so I brazed it. It got me through the summer, but last fall I got a couple of pinholes where I had bridged a gap with brass. If I were to do it again, I would first weld about an inch wide strip to the inside of one half, then weld the other half to the resulting backer. This would provide mechanical strength which the brass is not good at. For now, I've rewelded the pin holes, and I will give it another go with the POR15. I was a bit dissspointd that the POR15 didn't prevent this problem. I guess half a tank of gas sloshing around puts a lot of load on that seam.

Thanks! Yeah, it's a tough spot to separate at for sure. I think my plan would be to cut either just above the flange, or try to cut just the top layer of the flange inside the point where the halves are crimped together, and then there's an overlapping point when I go to re-weld it.

if I don't end up with pinholes after cleaning I might try to get away without a tank coating, as you say if/when it fails it's a pain. I'd guess (but don't know) that just keeping gas in the tank would help a lot with corrosion reforming.

[zedfoot]

Ethanol in modern gasoline is the problem. I store the car with a full tank of ethanol free and stabilizer, or run it completely empty.

[zedfoot]

It could have been worse. FB_IMG_1624789094540.jpg

[DAT240]

Looks like an extra in a Wes Craven film.

[zedfoot]

A new sending unit from Rick flyzlo , made my gauge read properly.

[zedfoot]

I wanted to know where empty really is with the new sending unit, so I drove as far as I dared. Just made it to the cottage. Had to slosh it around to keep it running on one hill near Horseshoe Valley. The way I empty the tank is to run a hose from the fuel pump into a Jerry can then put air pressure on the return line. This time, the return line pressured up and no gas came. I tried right at the tank and it was plugged solid. Tried poking a wire in with no luck. Took the sending unit out and poked a wire from the inside. Still no luck. Finally dropped the tank off for what must be the 20th time. The spigot coming off the tank has a bend, so I cut it off so I could drill it out. Of course the bit snapped off and I spent an hour with a bigger bit and lots of Kool Kut, chewing it out. Almost gave up and teed into a vent line. Don't want to go without recirculation, need it to prevent vapour lock. Not sure of the ramifications of drilling out the orifice that was there, but if it needs back pressure, I'll flatten the hard line where it's easy to get at.
While it's on the hoist, I'm chasing oil leaks and a minor problem with the clutch slave. Also can't find the source of a clunk in the right rear suspension. I did find where an exhaust hanger was touching the body.
Several other projects on the go before Z Fest, but I won't hijack my own thread.