Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Project Theseus

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #76
    That's great but make sure you have the white pre filter on the outside of the 6001

    Comment


    • #77
      Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
      That's great but make sure you have the white pre filter on the outside of the 6001

      Yep, that's what's under the plastic clip-on section in the pic.

      Comment


      • #78
        Thanks for all the content, guys. Good to see the forum picking up speed again.
        Eric Zondervan
        72 240Z
        54 Chevy 3100 pickup
        91 Nissan Figaro
        11 Sierra 4X4
        17 Nissan Juke Nismo
        18 Audi SQ5
        18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
        17 Yamaha FZ-10
        65 Honda Moped

        Comment


        • #79
          zedfoot - thanks for keeping the forum going! It's a great place to get feedback/help on the build.

          ----

          Didn't really feel like lying on a cold concrete floor and welding today, so I started stripping the 7 layers of paint off the hood.

          Before:



          First layer off. I realized that this would take forever, so I broke out the grinder after this:




          It was at this point I realized that

          A) I'm really glad I wore my respirator

          and

          B) this is going to take forever to clean up



          After spending the next hour sweeping the entire garage, I decided to go back to paint stripper.

          I ran out of paint stripper after getting to this point, so will finish up the job tomorrow. Happily there are only two layer of paint on the bottom, so it should be much quicker.

          Last edited by Noll; 04-10-2019, 09:39 PM.

          Comment


          • #80
            Mocked up the rocker patch.




            and welded in (mostly) a section of front firewall and the flange that ties it in to the inner rocker and other bits.

            Or, more accurately, I welded in a smaller section, ground it too thin when cleaning it up, blew 3 million holes in it, got annoyed, hit it with a hammer, cut it out, realized I could save some work by making it one big piece instead of doing other smell patches nearby, and then made the larger patch.

            I still need to go back and fill a few pinhole areas I missed with the welder, but otherwise I'm happy with it.



            Before I make a replacement for the rest of the flange, I need to make a patch for the inner fender liner section, and before that I need to fix the gaping rusty hole visible above the patch.


            Comment


            • #81
              Been a busy week, but I was able to make some progress today.

              Got the rear glass and front windscreen out:





              I knew this would need repair, as there was a patch riveted on next to the window rubber.



              Happily this was the only other spot that will need work here; I was expecting it to be worse.



              Once cleaned up that first spot got a lot bigger:




              I also noticed some bondo on the inner doorjamb, so I broke out the wire wheel. More hidden hackjob fixes, this never ends...





              Luckily, I have purchased Rick Scott's 280z drag car shell, so I will be able to cut the sections I need from that instead of having to try to form my own patches; both here and for the windscreen. Will be towing that home next week after the swap meet,


              After that I decided to strip the hatch and roof, as I was tired of the ugly red. Some finishing yet to do.



              The hatch is mostly solid, with some exceptions:





              This is all pushed up and oil-canned, so will have a decent amount of work ahead of me:




              I also got the fuel filler neck out in preparation for dropping the tank. This seems to be in pretty good shape, so I will probably reuse it.


              Comment


              • #82
                Your doing a fabulous job there my friend. If I may, I would like you to reconsider replacing that fuel filler neck while you are at it. A new neck is very pliable. If your sure yours is a good neck that's great. But, you don't want to have a crack develop in the future. The filler neck / hoses get hard over time. Im just thinking of your safety. In the event of an accident, you don't want fuel or fumes inside the cabin of the car. This is of particular concern if the car overturned. It could pour fuel into the cabin. Many a person died a horrible death in old pickups trucks with the fuel tank behind the seat. In a roll over, the neck would could come off or crack & all that fuel ran into the cab. I know this is is a Datsun. But the possibility exists with these too. Just thinking of you & your family. It is particularly disturbing for me personally because I was involve in pulling a person from a burning vehicle. Enough of that. My compliments to the work you are doing.

                Comment


                • #83
                  OMG your in the thick of it now man, don't let it overwhelm you.

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Originally posted by Dr.Diesel View Post
                    Your doing a fabulous job there my friend. If I may, I would like you to reconsider replacing that fuel filler neck while you are at it. A new neck is very pliable. If your sure yours is a good neck that's great. But, you don't want to have a crack develop in the future. The filler neck / hoses get hard over time. Im just thinking of your safety. In the event of an accident, you don't want fuel or fumes inside the cabin of the car. This is of particular concern if the car overturned. It could pour fuel into the cabin. Many a person died a horrible death in old pickups trucks with the fuel tank behind the seat. In a roll over, the neck would could come off or crack & all that fuel ran into the cab. I know this is is a Datsun. But the possibility exists with these too. Just thinking of you & your family. It is particularly disturbing for me personally because I was involve in pulling a person from a burning vehicle. Enough of that. My compliments to the work you are doing.
                    Thanks! I'm pretty sure mine is good, as the fuel tank and related stuff looks to have been replaced at some point (tank straps have part number sticker still readable, and tank is rust-free), but I'll still check it over carefully. If it's safe I'll reuse it, but will definitely pick up a new one if there's any evidence that it may not be! Safety 1st for sure.

                    Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
                    OMG your in the thick of it now man, don't let it overwhelm you.
                    Yep, definitely getting stuck in now. And yeah, trying to work on one section at a time to keep it all manageable. Lots of work ahead, but I'm sure I can get it all done.

                    I think next up will be to get the fuel tank out, which will then let me fix the rear cargo area floor. Once I have the 280 shell here, I'll get the new rockers in, then can do rear quarters, floors, etc.


                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Weather was great today, so made more progress.

                      It's now been exactly 2 years since I purchased this car, and coincidentally also my birthday.

                      Started by stripping all the flaky paint and rust from the underside of the hood.



                      There's a couple areas with pitting/minor rust, so I'm probably going to fix the worst of it, POR15 the whole thing, then topcoat it black. This is the worst part; happily this section on my spare bent hood is in good shape, so I'll weld in that section.



                      Next, I removed the radiator and cleaned the crusty rust off the front rad support.





                      Some of the rust areas:





                      Looks like the car has been hit at some point, the flanges here are not attached to the other panel:



                      More evidence of a past hit:





                      I'm trying to decide if I want to fix the rust, or get someone to cut the front ~18" off a parts car for me to unpick the welds and weld in place of my rad support. Thoughts?

                      With the radiator out, i was able to take a decent pic of the frame rail rust. The other side is basically the same. Should be a relatively easy fix as it's only the top/side, not the flange where it's spot welded.



                      This is why I think the fuel tank and related stuff may have been replaced at some point:



                      Tank is out now too! One bolt had to be cut, the other one undid nicely.



                      Seems pretty solid underneath, happily.





                      Got the bumper-mount off:



                      Got pretty lucky with this bolt:



                      Rear tow hooks removed too. Unfortunately 3/4 bolts snapped, but I'll deal with that at a future date:





                      And removed the crappy patchwork on the rear floor:



                      Is there any desire for the front bumper mounts (in good shape), or should I toss them? I'll be going to early 240z mounts.



                      A pretty productive day all-in-all, I'd say.
                      Last edited by Noll; 04-22-2019, 07:40 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Noll, when you have some time have a look through this thread, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/...w-front-rails/
                        Kent is having to deal with a lot of the same repair areas that you are and you might get some ideas on how to go about it.
                        He's a very talented fabricator with lots of experience and discipline.

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Thanks! I just skimmed through the 1st page, will properly look through the rest in a bit. Seems like it will be a very useful resource!



                          Speaking of fabrication, I decided to delve into the first of the radiator support repairs today:

                          This is what I was starting with:



                          Removed the corner gusset:



                          Cut out the bad, and re-made the rusted front flange:



                          Made a new bit and mocked it all up:



                          Welded in:



                          And the corner bracket back in:







                          Comment


                          • #88
                            Picked up and brought home the 280z shell. Thanks again to Rick Scott for all the help, and letting me leave the trailer with the shell overnight at his house! Now to get started dismantling it for the bits I need.





                            And my haul from the meet. Lots of very useful stuff, and it was great to be able to hang out and talk with everyone.



                            Comment


                            • #89
                              Got the rockers cut out of the shell. They will need a decent amount of prep work before they are ready to be fit to the car, mostly to remove the bracing mounts and other misc.



                              Rear valence off too. It looks like the replacement valence was shortened for some reason (vs my cutoff from my replacement quarters). I suppose I could try to add a metal strip on the bottom to bring it back to spec, but I get the feeling that will warp like a mofo when welded. Might need to pick up a replacement lower valence when I get new floors. thoughts?

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
                                Noll, just a word of caution, if you remove all of the rusted panels at once there is a good chance of the body sagging with so little metal left to support it, then you run into big problems went you start welding new metal in and things don't line up like they should.
                                Always wise to work one area at a time until it is done and supporting itself again. Ask me how I know
                                .
                                I don't want to nag you Noll but you are heading into dangerous waters with all that metal removed, the transmission tunnel is about the only thing left giving any rigidity. You need some welded in support bars to keep things from sagging, alright I'll be quite now.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X