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  • #61
    Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
    You should remove or thoroughly cover the dash and any glass you are keeping. All the grinding sparks will do an amazing amount of damage before you notice it.
    Thanks for the advice! Dash will be coming out to get at the firewall rust, and I'll make sure to wrap a tarp or something around the windscreen (nowhere to put it if I remove it currently).

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    • #62
      Be prepared for a whole lot more rust once you remove that windshield. Take note of the fit in the bottom corners. Many Zs have a gap here which can be addressed while you are doing metal work. Ive seen them where the painter masked the rubber but the dash got painted through the gap.
      Eric Zondervan
      72 240Z
      54 Chevy 3100 pickup
      91 Nissan Figaro
      11 Sierra 4X4
      17 Nissan Juke Nismo
      18 Audi SQ5
      18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
      17 Yamaha FZ-10
      65 Honda Moped

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      • #63
        Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
        Be prepared for a whole lot more rust once you remove that windshield. Take note of the fit in the bottom corners. Many Zs have a gap here which can be addressed while you are doing metal work. Ive seen them where the painter masked the rubber but the dash got painted through the gap.
        That's useful to know! It doesn't look too bad currently (some bubbling on the top driver's corner), but I suppose I won't know the full extent until the gasket is off. I'll make sure to deal with that gap if it is an issue on my car, thanks for the info!

        ------------------------

        Got the dash and steering column out today. Went pretty easily, the only exception being the bolts on the steering coupler by the rubber bushing.



        I need to decide what to do with the dash - clean it and put it back in as-is, have a go at fixing the cracks (hard to get that factory texture though), or save up and purchase one of the reproduction dashes that started production recently.





        I also removed the gas pedal and sanded the pivot to remove rust (It was rusted to the point that it was overpowering the return spring), so it's back to being functional now. Nothing picture-worthy about that though.

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        • #64
          that dashboard is honestly quite good considering the condition of the rest of the car... the dash in my car is FAR worse.

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          • #65
            There is a detailed thread here from years ago by zaksz documenting a dash restoration he did.
            Eric Zondervan
            72 240Z
            54 Chevy 3100 pickup
            91 Nissan Figaro
            11 Sierra 4X4
            17 Nissan Juke Nismo
            18 Audi SQ5
            18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
            17 Yamaha FZ-10
            65 Honda Moped

            Comment


            • #66
              vvise - yeah, it's a strange contrast to the rest of the car haha.

              zedfoot - Thanks for the info! I'll be sure to have a look for that when it comes time to decide what to do with the dash.

              ----------------------------

              Got the remains of the outer rocker removed today, and cut out some of the badness of the front corner as well:





              Going to go to a local metal supplier tomorrow to get them to bend up the sections of the inner rockers that I need to replace. From there I can better mock up the fitment of the outer rocker, and make all the other repair sections that will be required before I can weld it in place for good.

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              • #67
                Alright, new rocker sections are being made! Had to hunt around a bit to find somewhere that could make bends that small, but found a roofing supply place that was able to do it for me. Only downside is that it's going to be galvanized metal, so I'll need to grind most of the galvanizing off for welding. Still, total cost was 36$ CAD for two 6-foot sections bent up to my drawing, so that's not bad at all! I'll be able to pick them up Monday.

                Should have a couple feet of material left over when done (I had them made long as it was so cheap, figured better than too short), so if anyone needs to do some inner rocker patches, let me know; you're welcome to the extra bits if you'd like.

                Comment


                • #68
                  Galvanized? If you're grinding it at least start with at least 16 guage? Hope your tetanus shot is up to date . Great progress!
                  See 240Ziggy

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                  • #69
                    Do I need to warn you about the fumes that come off galvanized metal when you heat it up?
                    Eric Zondervan
                    72 240Z
                    54 Chevy 3100 pickup
                    91 Nissan Figaro
                    11 Sierra 4X4
                    17 Nissan Juke Nismo
                    18 Audi SQ5
                    18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
                    17 Yamaha FZ-10
                    65 Honda Moped

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      molstdZ - a little thinner than that unfortunately, but I'll make do. Thanks, it's going pretty well so far!

                      zedfoot - no worries, ive read up on it and will be taking all precautions; removing the galvanizing where I'm welding, as well as wearing a 3m half-face respirator that I have just to be safe, and making sure there's decent airflow when welding.

                      EDIT: Just realized that I don't actually know what the filters in my mask currently are rated for, so I did some research on various welding sites and have picked up a set of these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Should be here tuesday, and I have plenty of other welding to do before the rocker patches go on anyways.
                      Last edited by Noll; 04-06-2019, 12:34 PM.

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                      • #71
                        Those round pink filters are just for particulates, they are not going to prevent the vapourized zinc from entering your lungs.

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                        • #72
                          Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
                          Those round pink filters are just for particulates, they are not going to prevent the vapourized zinc from entering your lungs.
                          Hmm, are you sure? From what I read at the below link, the 3M 2097 filters (what I purchased) should do the job just fine (see post 31 in the link):

                          https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...41#post4219441

                          And from the 3m site: https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/com...4529206&rt=rud
                          Recommended Application Assembly and Mechanical, Brazing, Cleaning, Metal Pouring, Painting, Pesticide Application, Remediation, Soldering, Torch Cutting, Welding
                          If I'm wrong though, that's fine, I do want to do this as safely as possible. Would you have any other filter recommendations if that's the case?
                          Last edited by Noll; 04-06-2019, 09:23 PM.

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                          • #73
                            Best thing to do is find a safety supply store near you. Tell them what you will be doing, bring in what you have and they will make sure you have what you need and are wearing it correctly and that you know how to test it properly. For respirator masks you must be clean shaven, ie: no facial hair that will interfere with the proper sealing of the mask against your face.
                            71 510 wagon
                            72 CB450
                            74 CB360T
                            2013 Toyota Corolla
                            Formerly 510er
                            It's amazing how one tiny capacitor can wreak so much havoc.

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                            • #74
                              I use the 3m 6001 cartridge with the white particulate filter before the cartridge. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...4780292&rt=rud

                              I see that the pink filter covers welding fumes but when I have used them I can still clearly smell the welding fumes, I'm sure the filter is taking out the big particles but if you can still smell it, it's going in.
                              Mind you, after 40 something years of working on and restoring cars and bikes where I did little more than hold my breath or pull my T shirt up over my nose, well now I'm paying for it.
                              Breathing equipment isn't a luxury, it's an investment, he says, cough cough.

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                510longroof - Thanks for the advice! I've texted a local bodyshop guy that I know to see what his thoughts are in that regard (he teaches at a local college, so I definitely trust what he says); waiting to hear back.

                                grannyknot- Very true, and I've been trying to work on improving the long-term side of things for the past while. Did some angle-grinding one time a couple years back with no ear protection, and the ringing in my ears that lasted for a couple days convinced me that taking precautions in all aspects of this hobby is well worth it in the long run, even if it's more effort. I'd like to be around in good health to enjoy this car for the long run once it's roadworthy.

                                As it so happens, it turns out that the filters I already have on my mask are the 3m 6001's, so I should be good to go regardless. I'm going to try out the pink filters with regular welding to see how they are, then swap over if needed (before trying galvanized).

                                Apparently the 2091's (I purchased the 2097's) are also pink and do a similar job but with less odor protection than the 97's, so I suppose it's possible that what you had previously?

                                EDIT: Pic of what I have:

                                Last edited by Noll; 04-07-2019, 08:02 PM.

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