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  • bits printed successfully:




    Fitment is good, I did (after the pic) put a bit of adhesive on to ensure that these inner halves can't eventually slide forward or backwards, although I don't think this would be an issue.




    Sadly the rest of the hardline didn't show up today, but I was able to go get the barb fittings. This pic is a bit of a weird angle, the fitting isn't as close to the subframe rail as it may look (aka no danger of it rattling) and there's plenty of clearance after the barb before the spare tire well.
    That said, once I get the tank in and decide on how I want to mount the electric fuel pump I might change that straight barb fitting on the feed line to a 90 that points towards the pump bracket on the p/s of the car. The return line will stay a straight fitting, no reason for that one to be angled.

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    • Rockauto order of the rest of the hardlines still hasn't showed up, so some more misc. stuff today.

      Made a basic fuel pump mount plate:




      It's nothing fancy, but will do the job and not flex.

      I opted to have the outlet be facing away from the hardlines, one way or another one end would have to make that bend by the inner wheelarch and this seemed the cleanest way (and lets me avoid putting a 90 in in place of the straight barb on the feed line). This is the rough line routing plan as of current, with an approximation of the tank, and a fuel filter (purple):



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      • Rest of the brake/fuel stuff finally showed up, so got all the hardlines complete up to the rear of the engine bay.








        Got the handbrake stuff all bolted on too, as well as the front diff mount:






        Looks a whole lot better than not that long ago!

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        • I'm pretty much stuck until I get the tank in good shape and on the car, so spent some time today stripping the rest of the rubber coating off of it.




          Ripped the old patch off, nothing untoward underneath so I guess there were just some pinholes or something?




          Other than some dents the bottom is in pretty good shape, there is one corner that seems to have some pinholes but that's not a big deal. The flange between the tank halves also has some rust, but it's all outside of the crimped join so it's just cosmetic.





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          • Well worth your while to plug up all the holes and ports so you can pressurize it a bit. Air will find leaks that water won't. Then you can spritz the whole tank with soapy water and look for bubbles.
            Eric Zondervan
            72 240Z
            54 Chevy 3100 pickup
            91 Nissan Figaro
            11 Sierra 4X4
            17 Nissan Juke Nismo
            18 Audi SQ5
            18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
            17 Yamaha FZ-10
            65 Honda Moped

            Comment


            • Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
              Well worth your while to plug up all the holes and ports so you can pressurize it a bit. Air will find leaks that water won't. Then you can spritz the whole tank with soapy water and look for bubbles.
              That's the plan! Going to do all the cutting/cleaning/welding first (if I do the tank myself if the rad shop won't) then go through and pressurize everything + weld up all the pinholes as needed.

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              • Decided it would be easier to mount the tank up with the car the right way up, so there was no reason not to flip it back.

                A couple last pics before the flip:






                And back the right way up:






                Super basic strut mockup. Waiting on bushings then this can all go together for real.




                And spent a bunch of hours putting sound deadening in, have about half the car done. Will be putting some in the spare tire well and probably on the rear wheelaches if I don't run out, front floor/firewall is the bigger priority.






                Will aim to get the rest of the sound deadening done over the next day or two, and then it's suspension time when the remaining bits show up.

                Comment


                • Rest of the sound deadening done. Ran out right after doing the firewall, will need to get more for the doors when I do them. For those that have applied this stuff in the past (Noico brand, basically the same stuff as dynamat, fatmax, etc), is it alone enough for firewall insulation or will I want another layer of heat barrier stuff on top?








                  Also dug out the vinyl kit I got for really cheap off a friend a while back to see what it contained, it has the transmission tunnel vinyl which is nice, I like the look of that over carpet.




                  Bolts and tie rod ends came today, bushings will be here tomorrow and I can start on suspension stuff.

                  Comment


                  • Carpet made a big difference to sound and heat. I did use another layer over the Noico on the firewall. The brand escapes me.
                    Eric Zondervan
                    72 240Z
                    54 Chevy 3100 pickup
                    91 Nissan Figaro
                    11 Sierra 4X4
                    17 Nissan Juke Nismo
                    18 Audi SQ5
                    18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
                    17 Yamaha FZ-10
                    65 Honda Moped

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
                      Carpet made a big difference to sound and heat. I did use another layer over the Noico on the firewall. The brand escapes me.
                      Oh, I bet. Carpet will definitely be happening, just probably a little after I get the car on the road as it's another 350$ I don't NEED to spend to drive it. I think for the shorter-term I'm going to make a heel plate kind of deal with some skateboard grip tape on top of it for the driver, should look and work well.

                      Do you remember the type of stuff you used for the 2nd layer; this sort of sound/heat barrier or something else? https://www.amazon.ca/KKmoon-Deadeni...1B1RZ&dchild=1

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                      • Yes, like that.
                        Eric Zondervan
                        72 240Z
                        54 Chevy 3100 pickup
                        91 Nissan Figaro
                        11 Sierra 4X4
                        17 Nissan Juke Nismo
                        18 Audi SQ5
                        18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
                        17 Yamaha FZ-10
                        65 Honda Moped

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
                          Yes, like that.
                          Sweet, thanks! Will probably get some then, trying to keep the car as light as possible though (within reason, don't want it to be unbearable inside) so possibly not .Going to do a bunch of research as to what people who only did one layer thought of the heat dispersion, and maybe even apply some of that gold reflective tape to the outside firewall where the exhaust is close if I go that route.

                          --------------------------

                          Bushings still didn't show up today (grrr), so did what I could to prep by bolting the halfshafts to the diff and filling it up with 75w90 gear oil.

                          Comment


                          • Still no bushings (maybe friday), so more misc stuff.

                            made a shim for both rear tophats so there's not a gap between them and the strut body:




                            Got the water drain tubes and air intake ducts in (don't mind the ugly paint, if it's not visible I didn't bother doing as good of a job):




                            And threw the main bit of body harness in. This will probably come out again at least once, I just wanted to refresh myself on how it attached and make sure all was well. the bit that runs along the rocker I'll re-tape as it's pretty gross and visible.




                            I've gotten lucky with the wiring so far - the only messed-with wires were a couple of cut ones in the center-console harness - come looking in the FSM showed them to be the radio power and speaker wires which makes sense for an aftermarket radio install at some point I guess. I'll re-do it all nicely whenever I put a radio in.

                            That said, I did some across this which has taken a bit of starting at wiring diagrams to figure out:



                            For a bit of background, the 260z has 2 fuel pump relays - the first is on above 400rpm (for safety if the car's in an accident), and the 2nd one acts as part of the "interlock" system (AKA car won't start if you have seats with pressure sensors and you're not buckled up) as well as (for some reason) shutting off the pump while the car is cranking. So key on pump on, cranking off, once car hits 400 rpm, pump back on.

                            At first glance this jumper just seemed like it was eliminating the 2nd relay (which is fine as it doesn't seem to do anything useful), but after some peering through wiring diagrams I'm pretty sure whoever did it did it wrong.

                            The green wire goes from the other relay to this one, and from there would go through the relay and out to the middle wire (black with white stripe, BW). As it is now, the green wire's hooked directly to ground, which wouldn't hurt anything but means that the BW wire is just dangling in the breeze not connected to anything. The BW wire is the fuel pump positive wire, so as it is now the fuel pump is totally inoperative regardless of key position or engine state.
                            Should be able to just jump the green wire to the BW wire instead and be good to go. I could also hook the relay back up, but it's at best useless and at worst could lead to the car not starting if the interlock stuff is acting up, so why bother (and having the pump keep running while the car is cranking seems like a good idea anyway for future EFI stuff).
                            Last edited by Noll; 04-21-2021, 07:47 PM.

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                            • No sense wasting time while waiting on parts, so back to welding stuff together.

                              Forgot about this bit, not too bad of a fix though.










                              Threw on the chrome trim to make sure fitment was good:




                              Ok, back to the main goal of getting the bolt-on panels done. Leading edge of the hood needed a little work, and I cleaned up the factory fold in the middle while I was at it.








                              The rear had some pinholing, so pulled a chunk off to see how bad it was:






                              This side is pretty bad:






                              The other side not so much thankfully, easy fix:






                              Thankfully I have the other hood to use for cutoffs (as the front is crumpled on that one), so it shouldn't be huge deal to fix everything.

                              Comment


                              • Dropped off my gas tank at the radiator shop to be looked at and cleaned/sealed. Amusingly enough there was another Z tank (I want to say 75-76 280z?) there already; not too many datsun enthusiasts in the ottawa area so the odds of 2 of us dropping tanks off at the same place (and on the same morning) must be pretty darn low.



                                They'll gave me a call on wednesday with exact pricing, the quote I got was about 300$ if they end up having to deal with the pinholes too (which is likely). That's for sandblasting, acid dipping, tank liner coating, and (I think?) painting the outside.
                                Worth it IMO to end up with a known good tank and not have to either gamble on another used tank or spend a boatload on a new one from the company that makes repro ones (usd/cad exchange rate won't be kind I'm sure).
                                Last edited by Noll; 04-26-2021, 02:17 PM.

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