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  • Have you checked to make sure the transmission support cross member still fits after all the work you've done?
    Eric Zondervan
    72 240Z
    54 Chevy 3100 pickup
    91 Nissan Figaro
    11 Sierra 4X4
    17 Nissan Juke Nismo
    18 Audi SQ5
    18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
    17 Yamaha FZ-10
    65 Honda Moped

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    • Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
      Have you checked to make sure the transmission support cross member still fits after all the work you've done?
      I have not (yet). Seems like a pretty difficult part to bend/warp by accident, but it's a good idea to do it just in case, I'll make sure that happens before paint! the crossmember is still bolted to the 4spd transmission, so at least I don't have to go digging through a box to find it.

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      • Ok, even easier, remembered I have the T3 240sx transmission crossmember sitting around, so bolted that up to test. Zero issues, all holes are where they should be.

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        • Glad to hear that. Remember I was concerned because I had to use a Porta Power to get mine in and again to get the heater control panel to fit. The body was distorted so badly from all the cutting and welding . Body by Biggs refused to use a rotisserie because they thought the body might sag.
          Eric Zondervan
          72 240Z
          54 Chevy 3100 pickup
          91 Nissan Figaro
          11 Sierra 4X4
          17 Nissan Juke Nismo
          18 Audi SQ5
          18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
          17 Yamaha FZ-10
          65 Honda Moped

          Comment


          • Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
            Glad to hear that. Remember I was concerned because I had to use a Porta Power to get mine in and again to get the heater control panel to fit. The body was distorted so badly from all the cutting and welding . Body by Biggs refused to use a rotisserie because they thought the body might sag.
            Oh, that's no fun at all. I guess the earlier trans. mount has less bracing and allowed the transmission tunnel to be pulled around by the welding heat? Thankfully despite the massive amount of stuff I cut out of my car everything ended up perfectly square - some planning, measuring and bracing helped of course, but there was also a bit of dumb luck .


            -----------------------

            The (hopefully) 2nd last bit of welding on the underside is now complete. Cleaned up the d/s dogleg (may revisit once the car is the right way up):




            And got the front lower section of the inner arch all made whole again. a replica of how the original went it is not, but will work just fine. Didn't want to spend masses of time making something that's hidden look perfect and the stock overlapping-flange layout has eventually rusted out in every car I've ever had. Separated, stitch-welded, and (soon) seam sealed, water/grit should now have nowhere to get stuck while flowing down and out.

            Last edited by Noll; 03-29-2021, 10:34 PM.

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            • Lookin' good! I worried about body distortion when I was cutting and hacking away big pieces like the floors and the rockers. I had nightmares about the entire body folding in on itself on the rotisserie. My solution was to bolt the transmission mount back on place before I cut anything. I also attached a brace between the door latch and the lower door hinge mount to prevent distortion. So far all good, but the real proof will be when I finally fit the doors. I'm trying not to think about that.

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              • Originally posted by DAT240 View Post
                Lookin' good! I worried about body distortion when I was cutting and hacking away big pieces like the floors and the rockers. I had nightmares about the entire body folding in on itself on the rotisserie. My solution was to bolt the transmission mount back on place before I cut anything. I also attached a brace between the door latch and the lower door hinge mount to prevent distortion. So far all good, but the real proof will be when I finally fit the doors. I'm trying not to think about that.
                Thanks! Yeah, I was a bit concerned too; given how much I had to replace I opted to do the majority of the work while the car was still on its wheels so that the only way stuff could possibly sag was downwards. Braced stuff up when I cut big bits out, and it seems to have worked out - strut tower diagonal measurements etc check out the same on both sides and so on.

                Yeah, the doors are going to be a fun one, doubly so for me as I already know that I have a door-to-fender fitment issue on one side for unknown reasons. I'm not too concerned though, my doors need lots of work anyway, so I'll be rebuilding them on the car (to get the gaps right) and will tweak their sizes/shapes to match the openings I have to work with - nobody's going to be able to tell if, say, the driver's door ends up 3.75mm shorter on the leading edge relative to the passenger one so that I can get the fender far enough back lol.

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                • Your attitude is inspirational!

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                  • Originally posted by DAT240 View Post
                    Your attitude is inspirational!
                    I'm just stubborn lol. One way or another I'll get this car done, and no rust or other roadblock is going to stop me.

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                    • Some late night Z stuff today, my new headlight buckets came in so I degreased, painted, and assembled everything with the vintage Bosch E-codes I snagged on ebay a while back . Trim rings are the ones on the Z when I got it, hit them with some steel wool and they cleaned up nicely. Couple minor dings but nothing really visible.




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                      • Did the very final welding job on the shell today, 22 days shy of it being exactly 4 years since I bought the Z. It's a nice milestone to finally hit, almost never thought this day would come when I first started working on the car.

                        The welding in question, some final tubular front bracing. Made some mount plates:






                        And after a lot of cutting and grinding to get it to fit right, welded on the tubing:






                        Next up, a lot of weld cleanup, then scuffing, de-greasing, and generally cleaning the interior and underside before paint.

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                        • You must love working with some good mild steel!

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                          • Originally posted by Ont240 View Post
                            You must love working with some good mild steel!
                            I can't deny that metalwork is fun, sure will be glad to be done with it and be on to other jobs on the car though.

                            ------------------

                            A preview of what I plan on doing tomorrow, going to clean and paint as much stuff as I can. all U-joints in the axles/driveshafts have zero play, so a rattlecan rebuild it is for now. I'll ofc re-grease everything where possible.

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                            • All painted! Didn't do the fuel pump bracket as I'll be modifying it for the electric pump I'm running, will do that when get all the fuel lines and tank in place.



                              Took 5 hours all in (most of that properly removing rust and generally cleaning before primer/paint). My back is not happy, but hey, the job is done.
                              I'll do the diff cover once the paint cures, waffling between silver or gold for it.
                              Last edited by Noll; 04-03-2021, 01:59 AM.

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                              • Diff cover is aluminum. Polish it!

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