Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Project Theseus

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Got the middle 1/3 of the car stitch-welded today:




    And started mocking up the rear subframe connectors:

    Comment


    • Pretty flippin awesome work

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Casey_z View Post
        Pretty flippin awesome work
        Thanks! I'm pretty happy with how the recent underside work has been going.

        ------------------------

        The stitch-welding continues. Did all the front inner arch stuff:




        Welded up the bottom side of the camber-plate and cut out the inner fender liner bolts to replace with blank plates:






        Did a bunch of cleanup to the under-floor weld seams too, not sure how much it comes across in pictures but it's, if still not amazing, a lot cleaner than before. Seam sealer will hide the imperfections .





        Next up is reinforcing the rear jack points and possibly making some in the middle to easily lift one side of the car at a time to swap tires etc, then everything from the seatbelt mounts forward will be done (while it's flipped this way anyway, more to do up front once I flip it the other way)

        Comment


        • Just a suggestion. I would have extended the floor box supports all the way to the back and tied into the cross support.
          i always jack from the diff and front cross member on a Z. it's still only jacking it twice! nolls z_LI.jpg

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Ont240 View Post
            Just a suggestion. I would have extended the floor box supports all the way to the back and tied into the cross support.
            i always jack from the diff and front cross member on a Z. it's still only jacking it twice! nolls z_LI.jpg
            Oh yeah, I am 100% going to be doing that - I have one of those connectors mocked up in my post on feb 23.

            That's a fair point, I guess my concern is more about getting a jack that far under the body (and past the front valence and spook) given that the car will be reasonably low, might be less of an issue than I'm thinking though.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Noll View Post
              That's a fair point, I guess my concern is more about getting a jack that far under the body (and past the front valence and spook) given that the car will be reasonably low, might be less of an issue than I'm thinking though.
              I think it is worth doing the reinforced jack points. My car is lowered so I need to drive it up on to some wood to get the clearance I need to use the front cross member. Also the aftermarket exhaust (fujitsubo) makes it difficult to get at the differential.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by colinc View Post

                I think it is worth doing the reinforced jack points. My car is lowered so I need to drive it up on to some wood to get the clearance I need to use the front cross member. Also the aftermarket exhaust (fujitsubo) makes it difficult to get at the differential.
                Also a good point! I'll be tucking the exhaust as much as possible but there's still a lot of underhang and a lot of stuff under there before the diff, so somewhat of a pain regardless.

                -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                A bit of an interlude from the underside work. Decided to fix the rear hatch for good (it was warped for a number of reasons), and as I couldn't get access in behind to hammer, I took the nuclear option of cutting the entire lower skin off:




                Re-shaped it, cleaned/primed the underside, and mocked it up with the spoiler and left it overnight:




                The next day, started welding:



                Mocked up the spoiler again to make sure all was well.




                And done. There's still imperfections, but it's a thousand times better than it was before, and there is no oil-canning at all etc. Considering it was warped to the point where it was slightly concave before (as opposed to convex), I'm more than happy.



                Comment


                • Decided to do some digging at the filler on my replacement doors to see just how much work they'd need; when i got them I knew there was some below the lower body line both inside and out so figured that area would need the usual amount of attention. I might have underestimated a bit:






                  Other side isn't quite as bad but still not ideal:




                  So, uh, yeah. Not great. Keep in mind that there were meant to be the replacement doors. As of right now I think my plan is going to be to fix the frame of my original doors (they still need a decent amount of work but not as bad as these are), and then reskin those doors using the known-good skins from these doors as the original doors are dented and oil-canned to oblivion. That also gives me the benefits of the bigger 260z crash-bar in the doors, I can more easily put sound-deadening in before I attach the new skin, and there's enough little differences between the pictured doors (off a 240z) and my 260z doors that keeping the door winding mechanisms with the doors they came from will probably be easier.
                  Last edited by Noll; 03-01-2021, 08:18 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Wouldn't it be so cool to recess or French the door handles while you are working on the doors? or hide the handle as the rear edge of the door? or no handles at all - a remote pop up type opener....and add power windows? Great time to do these little extra nice, unique touches while you are working on the doors. Somewhere along the line while working on my cars, I saw an electric window kit that used the existing Z window cranks to control the window.... so cool

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Danielz View Post
                      Wouldn't it be so cool to recess or French the door handles while you are working on the doors? or hide the handle as the rear edge of the door? or no handles at all - a remote pop up type opener....and add power windows? Great time to do these little extra nice, unique touches while you are working on the doors. Somewhere along the line while working on my cars, I saw an electric window kit that used the existing Z window cranks to control the window.... so cool
                      It would be the time to do it, that's for sure! I dunno how much of that I would want to do though, I really like the basic simplicity of manual everything. If I eventually decide to do central locking etc later, should only need to pop the door cards off and drill a couple bolt holes for a solenoid.

                      That said, there is one mod I am definitely doing, just need to figure out the specifics of how I want to do it. More below.

                      ---------------------------------------

                      Removed the skins from my original doors today. They are totally trashed, so just went around the folded lip with a sanding disk to remove them quickly, worked perfectly. Both had damage as you can see (the reason for the absurd amount of bondo they had on them), and the driver's door had evidence of some interesting bodywork - holes drilled to pull the door back out (badly), then the holes brazed up.






                      Chucked those in the trash, and had a look at the door frames. About as bad as I'd expected, definitely workable. before anyone mentioned it, I have much better replacement glass, so not too fussed about grinding sparks getting on these windows (they are already covered in bad tint and paint overspray).





                      I then drug these in out of the snow. These were left over bits from the 280z partial shell I cut up for parts; I've been making a point to hold onto anything usable until I'm 100% done with metalwork, and it paid off.




                      Why, you may ask? Simple; the later Zs had nicely-formed speaker mounts in the inner structure there. From what I've read, they kinda just put sound into the side of your seat there, but the metal bits themselves will be useful. I want front speakers, and Zs are not exactly known for having extra space up front for them. Plan is to graft these into the door frames to run speakers in the front of the doors; should be a whole lot cleaner doing it this way than the 'ol "holesaw and tinsnips" method, and I'm probably making my own doorcards anyway so I can make them look nice and stealthy.





                      That's about where I'll leave the doors until the car is back on its wheels; need to be able to fit them on the car before I re-skin them to make sure all the door gaps end up correct.
                      back to the underside work, got the rear subframe connectors all welded on and cleaned up. Many thanks again to grannyknot for giving me the subframe connectors last year, they needed a little tweaking but saved me a ton of time and effort vs making some from scratch.






                      Comment


                      • Some misc work today. Made a patch for this subframe section:






                        Did most of the remaining stitch-welding:




                        And cleaned up the p/s wheelwell and cut out some of the lower lip to expose some more work that I need to do.



                        Comment


                        • As always, nice work Noll.

                          A little off topic but would everyone agree that just forward of the patch in the first picture above (basically positioned over the hole in the subframe) is an acceptable lift point when using a floor jack. I have been using the seat belt pockets but they seem to be deforming slightly.

                          Thanks
                          Last edited by colinc; 03-04-2021, 12:23 PM.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by colinc View Post
                            As always, nice work Noll.

                            A little off topic but would everyone agree that just forward of the patch in the first picture above (basically positioned over the hole in the subframe) is an acceptable lift point when using a floor jack. I have been using the seat belt pockets but they seem to be deforming slightly.

                            Thanks
                            Thanks!

                            That's a tough one to say yes or no to, as I found out doing the repair, that rear 'leg' is 2 layers of metal all the way up to about 1cm before the aforementioned drain hole (I made the patch from 1/8 plate to keep the thickness consistent for that reason). As such, around the hole is only 18 or 20ga metal. That said, it has the thicker metal to one side and an overlap joint with the other subframe section on the other, so might be just fine?

                            Personally if I were to use it for that I'd probably want to plate over a square that included it and the subframe section in front of it to spread the load.

                            something like this:

                            Last edited by Noll; 03-04-2021, 01:51 PM.

                            Comment


                            • I sometimes put a jack stand there towards the outside, but that's not a balance point if you only want to jack in one spot.

                              Comment


                              • Some non-metalwork stuff done today, got around to installing some longer studs in the rear end. From the rear of a S14 IIRC, I did the research when I bought them to make sure they would work but that was a while back.






                                And a blurry pic of my janky setup for installing the new studs. A lug nut, a deep 21mm socket, a shallow 21mm socket, some washers and a bunch of lubricating oil to make sure the threads didn't get galled. Nothing fancy, but it worked, I should get a proper lug tool with a bearing etc eventually though.



                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X