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  • Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
    Hey, you're in the home stretch!
    What is that flange looking thing that I circled, fuel pump mount of some kind?
    Indeed! lots of little stuff still has to happen, but so close to being done with this part of things (not including the work that the doors/hood/hatch need still).

    Yep, electric pump mount. did a bit of research on it a while back and it seems that the move to the flattop carbs meant it was a lot easier for the cars to vapor-lock in hot weather, so the electric pump was added (in addition to the mechanical one up front in the block) to mitigate that. I'll probably end up keeping that setup as I don't really see any downsides, just will replace the pump with a more modern one.

    For some reason the bracket it mounts to is stupidly overbuilt, could probably be 1/5 the weight and size with no issues. Might make my own version to shave a lot of unneeded weight off.

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    • My 240Z only had the mechanical pump on the engine. I put an electric pump by the tank. Then I eliminated the mechanical pump on the engine. The electric pump I used is more than adequate to provide fuel to the engine. You may want to consider having the same setup & simplify the system.

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      • Craig, how are you powering the electric pump? You need some kind of automatic shut off in case of a crash.
        Eric Zondervan
        72 240Z
        54 Chevy 3100 pickup
        91 Nissan Figaro
        11 Sierra 4X4
        17 Nissan Juke Nismo
        18 Audi SQ5
        18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
        17 Yamaha FZ-10
        65 Honda Moped

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        • Eric, Im running the electric fuel pump through a relay which is controlled by a "Fuel Pump Safety Shut Off" mounted on the firewall. If the car is involved in a collision it trips the safety switch shutting down the electric fuel pump. From time to time I test the switch by rapping the side of the switch to ensure it is operating. You just push to red button on top to reset it afterwards. Fire scares me!

          These switches are available from various electrical suppliers. Painless makes them as do others. Available at Jeg's, Summit Racing and I'm sure they are available through Napa too. I wouldn't run my car without it.

          The switch is handy in the fall when winterizing the car. I leave the engine running and rap the side of the switch which shuts down the relay and the engine runs out of fuel and stalls leaving the carburetors empty of fuel for the winter. Before the engine stalls, I'm also fogging the engine with oil for the winter.

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          • All good advice. I found this interesting article explaining how the Ford version works. That switch is available from Amazon for $43.65.
            Submitted by Craig Evers One of the least appreciated components in your fuel injection system is the fuel pump inertia switch. This little black box is designed to function flawlessly forever (or close to it), so it's easy to forget it's there.
            Eric Zondervan
            72 240Z
            54 Chevy 3100 pickup
            91 Nissan Figaro
            11 Sierra 4X4
            17 Nissan Juke Nismo
            18 Audi SQ5
            18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
            17 Yamaha FZ-10
            65 Honda Moped

            Comment


            • Solid points all round in regards to the fuel stuff. I'll probably keep some sort of dual setup for redundancy (and if it helps keep vapor lock at bay in the summer, awesome), but will pick up some sort of rollover shutoff module for the rear electric one if it doesn't have one somewhere already. That way in an accident the rear pump shuts off and the front one runs dry and the engine shuts off, and if in a rollover the rear shuts off and the carbs would flood because of the rollover, killing the engine and stopping the mechanical pump regardless.

              Plus, if/when I go to fuel injection (be that for a turbo setup or for motorcycle ITBs) The rear pump wiring is already in usable shape to swap in a high-pressure pump etc.

              ------------------------

              Spent 5 hours today removing undercoating. To say that this isn't a fun job would be an understatement, but it had to happen. probably 70-80% done, will do the rest soon. anyone have tips for removing the residue? I have a vague recollection from somewhere that lacquer thinner will work, but can't remember where I read that.





              On the plus side, everything seems in good shape. There's a couple small brackets I'll need to re-make and one or two I'll temporarily remove to deal with surface rust underneath, but no real rust issues to speak of (notwithstanding the stuff I already knew about).

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              • Hi. Just wanted to chime in here on the fuel system. As I recall, in the fuel injection system in my 76 280Z, when you turn the ignition key to "start", the fuel relay is energized providing fuel to the engine. Once the engine starts, the afm keeps the fuel relay energized when you let go of the key. As long as the afm is operating, fuel flows. If the car crashes and the engine stops, fuel is also stopped because the afm is no longer operating. Do you think a redundant set-up is needed in the 280Z like you were discussing? I tend to think the factory design is sufficient.

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                • Eastwood sells a couple of products to remove undercoating and the residue https://www.prweb.com/releases/2010u...web4625144.htm
                  Lacquer thinner might work but I think it is a bit nasty. Wear a respirator and lots of ventilation. Try rubbing alcohol ......

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                  • sorry, denatured alcohol

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                    • Originally posted by Noll View Post

                      Flippage occurred today, and went very well. Guess I did something right in regards to the pivot point etc, as I was able to flip it over by myself without the crane.

                      very cool !!

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                      • It's nasty stuff but MEK will take that under coating off in a jiff.

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                        • I was looking around the internet today with regards to getting under coating off and I came across a process using dry ice blasting which seems promising.
                          There's a company in Colborne, Ontario (Subzero Blasting) that does this work. Their business is a mobile business which will travel around southern Ontario. They also do some work at their shop. It's something to consider and or just plain interesting for a process to consider for future restorations. Probably a process that they would need to do at their shop.
                          I wonder what it costs?
                          https://subzeroblasting.com
                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNh9i97k5EI

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                          • Noll, I'm right there with you at the moment, trapped in undercoat scraping purgatory on the 510.
                            Attached Files

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                            • Thanks everyone, I appreciate the suggestions and comments. MEK is a good idea, I've used it for years for gluing ABS plastic together but forgot the original intended use haha. Whatever solvent I got with (if I go that route) I'll definitely be wearing my respirator with the correct filters for organic vapors etc.

                              Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
                              Noll, I'm right there with you at the moment, trapped in undercoat scraping purgatory on the 510.
                              Fun times for sure. You have the upside of having mostly original floors which is nice, but means more undercoating to remove.
                              Someone runs a mobile dustless blasting business 800m from me so I'm pondering getting them to blast the underside of the car once I get the bulk of the undercoating done with - will need to ask them about price etc. Would be simple enough to bolt some old skis on the bottom of the jig to slide it outside as-is.

                              --------------------------------------------------

                              Didn't feel like doing more undercoating removal today, so on to the front chassis legs. Before:






                              Cut off everything bad/un-needed, and dig some general welding/cleanup/prep work:




                              And where I'm at currently. In the interest of overkill, and of not having them get crushed again like they were when they are inevitably used as lift points on a hoist, I have made everything out of 3mm (1/8) plate; bit more weight but worth it for peace of mind. I'll also be using the same plate in a few other spots on the car to reinforce/create jack points as from what I've heard Zs are notorious for them sucking.





                              Still need to finish the upper (p/s) one, one more plate to cut then it can all be welded back together. Then probably on to stitch welding the middle 1/3 of the car and the aforementioned jack point improvement.

                              Also, good lord there are a lot of ugly patches under here. A natural byproduct of having learned to weld on this part of the car a couple years ago I guess, but still annoying. I'll clean it all up as much as I can and then seam sealer/paint will do the rest. The front lower footplates that meet the floorpans aren't exactly the same angle either side-to-side, but nobody but me (and now all of you) will have a reason to know that haha.
                              Last edited by Noll; 02-21-2021, 01:50 AM.

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                              • Finished up the chassis legs today:



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