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  • Started on the stitch welding today, got the back 1/3 of the car done. (minus the stuff I'll have to do from below):












    Still a bunch of cleanup to do (man, seam sealer really wrecks welds. I scraped out as much as possible but there's always some left), but I'm happy with it all.






    Next up, stitch weld the seat mounts, firewall stuff, and then the front end.
    Last edited by Noll; 12-06-2020, 02:41 AM.

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    • I don't have room for the Z and the snowmobiles in the garage, so I took the doors off before I tucked it away. I'll work on power windows, locks and mirrors over the winter.
      Eric Zondervan
      72 240Z
      54 Chevy 3100 pickup
      91 Nissan Figaro
      11 Sierra 4X4
      17 Nissan Juke Nismo
      18 Audi SQ5
      18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
      17 Yamaha FZ-10
      65 Honda Moped

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      • Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
        I don't have room for the Z and the snowmobiles in the garage, so I took the doors off before I tucked it away. I'll work on power windows, locks and mirrors over the winter.
        Nice! Always good to have some sort of winter project. I'm looking forwards to being able to put the doors (and other panels) back on mine for good, they're eating a ton of garage space off the car currently.

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        • Did some more stitch welding:






          And welded in some bars between the rocker panels and front frame rails:





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          • Didn't do a ton on the car this weekend, but still got some important stuff done.

            To do most of the remaining stuff I need to pull the hood/fenders/hinges/gas struts off again, so before all that I'm getting the front strut bar done so I know it'll clear the hood.

            Cut off the old mounts and made new ones to fit the t3 camber plate pattern while still allowing the full range of adjustment:






            Next up will be to triangulate it to the firewall, not sure where exactly I'll have it bolt up just yet.

            [url=https://flic.kr/p/2kgEpNR]

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            • You need to bolt up the firewall to the shock towers then everything is stable. It's good to weld a face plate on the pipes that butt into the firewall and install a permanent backing plate inside the wiper linkage area that you can just bolt into so you can remove the bracing easily. The plates just spread out the support to minimize flex.

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              • Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
                You need to bolt up the firewall to the shock towers then everything is stable. It's good to weld a face plate on the pipes that butt into the firewall and install a permanent backing plate inside the wiper linkage area that you can just bolt into so you can remove the bracing easily. The plates just spread out the support to minimize flex.
                Yep, no point doing it all just to have the firewall flex instead. I just built it all today, pretty happy with how it turned out. Mounting plates should be suitably beefy .

                ------------------------

                Started with the mounting plates themselves, made out of some flat bar stock. Nothing fancy, but they'll work fine.








                Not having the motor in the car obviously makes it a little more difficult to see where I can put the bars without them hitting anything important, but this is what I settled on after looking over some pics of other peoples' cars. Still looks pretty clean with the strut bar not on:




                And the completed bar itself. Didn't bother with in-progress pics, it's all simple enough - bolt everything in place, shave down the new bars bit-by-bit till they sit in the right place, then weld it all up and add some gussets for strength.








                Underhood clearance is still good:




                Rather happy with it all things considered. Seems whoever made the original strut tower bar back in the day didn't exactly make it symmetrical, but that doesn't bother me much.

                Last edited by Noll; 12-17-2020, 05:13 AM.

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                • That'll do the trick.

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                  • Got the front end all taken apart again to finish stuff up, and whipped up this as a proof of concept. My original plan was going to be to plate this whole part of the frame horns with 14ga sheet, but this seems like it'll do the same job of strengthening things without having a super large double-walled section that would invite rust if I didn't get the seam sealer perfect.




                    Would tie in nicely with my other planned tube brace, this is sorta what would be planned:



                    Anyone see any issues with this? Seems like it'll do the job nicely and no fitment issues with the fender etc.

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                    • Originally posted by Noll View Post
                      The reason that the hood hinges were bolted on was the other thing I did today - removing the torsion bars and replacing them with some gas struts. Shoutout to Grannyknot for the idea to do this, it's a really good idea.



                      Do you have a part number, or application for the hood struts you used? I've been thinking about doing this, just haven't had time to get to seeing what struts will work.

                      They do make for a nice wide open front area, like you say, so much space for activities.

                      The build is looking good.

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                      • The only thing I would change is I would extend both of the brace straps a little father so they are welded on directly above and below the hinge where the metal is thicker.

                        Six, I used #4477N10 lifts from these guys, https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/st...-lift-support/
                        They do the job well but it would be nice to have a little more assistance at the beginning of the lift and little less resistance putting the hood back down.
                        I'm sure they make a lift that will do both of those things but I didn't have enough time to do the research to find them.

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                        • Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
                          The only thing I would change is I would extend both of the brace straps a little father so they are welded on directly above and below the hinge where the metal is thicker.

                          Six, I used #4477N10 lifts from these guys, https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/st...-lift-support/
                          They do the job well but it would be nice to have a little more assistance at the beginning of the lift and little less resistance putting the hood back down.
                          I'm sure they make a lift that will do both of those things but I didn't have enough time to do the research to find them.
                          That change in assist and resistance should be able to be adjusted with positioning of the strut. Mostly, if it holds the hood up on a windy day, even if there's a bit of resistance to closing, that's good to me.

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                          • Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
                            The only thing I would change is I would extend both of the brace straps a little father so they are welded on directly above and below the hinge where the metal is thicker.

                            Six, I used #4477N10 lifts from these guys, https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/st...-lift-support/
                            They do the job well but it would be nice to have a little more assistance at the beginning of the lift and little less resistance putting the hood back down.
                            I'm sure they make a lift that will do both of those things but I didn't have enough time to do the research to find them.
                            Good suggestion! More of it overlapping the meat of the door pillar can only be a good thing from a strength perspective.

                            Originally posted by Six_Shooter View Post

                            That change in assist and resistance should be able to be adjusted with positioning of the strut. Mostly, if it holds the hood up on a windy day, even if there's a bit of resistance to closing, that's good to me.
                            I ended up using ones slightly longer than grannyknot did - 14" extended 9" closed. That's about as long as you'd want to go, any more and you'd have to cut the rad support to be able to weld the brackets in the right place.

                            https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BK734GX

                            For the brackets I used these - they were suitably beefy and pretty cheap for what they are. As it was a pack of 4, I used 2 as-is and removed the ball-ends from the other two to weld them to the hinges.

                            https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y2BB82L


                            --------------------------------------

                            Got the braces all welded on:





                            Not perfect but should definitely add strength to this area and some peace of mind in terms of chassis rigidity given the amount of repairs I've done in this relatively high-stress area.

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                            • On every Z I've ever taken apart there are 2 small dents on the outermost/uppermost section of the D/S frame horn, they look like they were done with a ballpeen hammer by someone on the assembly line. They keep the front fender from interfering with the frame horn, from looking at your pics
                              it looks like you have "fixed it", me too, but I had to bang them back in on final assembly.

                              So your lifts are 1.5" longer extended an 1" longer compressed, yours are rated at 24lbs mine are rated at 43lbs.
                              Once we are finally allowed to get together again it will be interesting to see how those differences compare with one another.
                              50767906243_45ae020ca4_b.jpg

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                              • Originally posted by Six_Shooter View Post

                                That change in assist and resistance should be able to be adjusted with positioning of the strut. Mostly, if it holds the hood up on a windy day, even if there's a bit of resistance to closing, that's good to me.
                                When doing this mod there is a very limited range lifts that can be used, too long and the hood won't close, too short and the hood won't close or will interfere with something else on the way up or down, not enough lbs of lift and the hood won't stay up.
                                One of the members on Hybridz, Litman I think came up with the idea although I don't think he ever got around to mounting them.
                                When I did it I looked in the catalogue of liftsupportdepot and basically spitballed it and as I mentioned above it was a good guess because they work well BUT they don't have that OEM feel. No team of engineers worked the problem so the lift and closure feel equal. If someone finds a better combination of lift characteristics I would certainly change over.
                                Last edited by grannyknot; 12-28-2020, 10:09 AM.

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