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  • Originally posted by grannyknot View Post
    If you unscrew the big wing nut there should be a 1/2" shaft under the larger shaft that will fit into the 1/2" hole in the sampler spool. I've never seen a DIY model that doesn't allow you to move from a 10lb spool to a 4lb spool.
    You are probably right, I think that photo was around 7pm after a good few hours of work so I wasn't thinking enough to give that a go.

    Comment


    • Finished the main lower skin rebuilding on the driver's side today. Some small things still to do, but overall very happy with it:








      Still need to deal with all the spotweld holes and make a plate with weldnuts for the 240z bumpers to mount to. happily, the 260z sheetmetal retained the holes for the bolts (just not the nuts), so I don't have to mock the whole front end up to find the correct positioning for the mounts.

      Comment


      • Now that you are working on the rad shell, you may want to consider making the top of the rad shell removable. This will make installing & removing the engine an easier exercise. Grannyknot did this with his 240z and you wouldn't even notice this modification if you didn't know to look for it. He made the top of the rad shell into a bolt in affair. Really nice. When I pull the engine on my 240Z the next time, I'm going to incorporate this modification on my Z.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Dr.Diesel View Post
          Now that you are working on the rad shell, you may want to consider making the top of the rad shell removable. This will make installing & removing the engine an easier exercise. Grannyknot did this with his 240z and you wouldn't even notice this modification if you didn't know to look for it. He made the top of the rad shell into a bolt in affair. Really nice. When I pull the engine on my 240Z the next time, I'm going to incorporate this modification on my Z.
          Oh definitely, saw that in his thread on Hybridz a while back and have planned to do some variation of that since. I've also just ordered some gas struts for the hood hinges to replace the torsion bars to clean the front up a bit and make my life easier in the future if I ever go to forced induction and need space for a intercooler (also stole that idea from grannyknot's thread, it's a really nice mod).

          --------------------------------------------------------------------------

          The passenger side inner structure has rusted through in a couple spots, so I decided to pull apart the driver's side to make sure it wasn't also rusting through from the inside. It was, but just pitting, all cleaned up now.








          While I was at it I spent an hour straightening out the old accident damage from the sheetmetal - not sure how much the 'before' photo shows it, but it was SUPER wavy and the upper flange where the fender bolts on wasn't in great shape either. It's not perfect, but the majority of the remaining damage is behind where the rad support will weld on so no big deal.






          Need to do the same on the passenger side, along with more rust repair, but going to wait until I've welded on the inner skin first for some extra strength.




          Also threw on the front fender, nice to see it looking somewhat whole again. It's sitting high because of the temporary brace, but close enough.



          Comment


          • Someone was kind enough to send me a free pair of the top portion of the strut tubes to replace my stuck gland nuts, and they showed up yesterday.




            Cut the top 2" off the struts, being careful to not cut the inserts so they were easy to remove. One side went fine, but the other was a MASSIVE pain due to the insert rusting to the tube. Ended up having to cut it in half, drill a hole in the bottom of the strut, and hammer both sections out. This sucked, but I got it done eventually.

            Mocked up ready to weld back together:






            Welded back together using the other old insert to keep things straight, and welded the lower spring perches on.




            All mocked up and looking good. need to take 1.5" out of the main tube section then I can weld it all back together for good. Need to figure out some way to clean the insides of the tubes out - the old dented insert fits just fine but the new ones are not wanting to slide in cleanly because of the leftover rust flakes.




            I have these leftover from the "new" top sections so for a bit of peace of mind and extra strength I'll cut one in half and weld it over the lower cut/weld after cleaning it up, and do the same on the other side so the struts look the same.

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            • Do you think electrolysis would clean up the rust on the inside?

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              • Cut a slot in a length of rod. Load plumbers sand cloth in the slot. Spin the rod with the fastest electric drill you have.
                Eric Zondervan
                72 240Z
                11 Sierra 4X4
                14 Kia Rondo EX
                19 Audi Q5
                08 Ski Doo MXZ
                18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
                16 Triumph Street Triple R.
                2010 Husqvarna 450 Supermoto.
                65 Honda Moped

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Danielz View Post
                  Do you think electrolysis would clean up the rust on the inside?
                  Sadly not, too much scale for it do do enough I think. Plus the new strut casing is a tiny bit larger than the old one it seems so the surface roughness will still cause fitment issues.

                  Originally posted by zedfoot View Post
                  Cut a slot in a length of rod. Load plumbers sand cloth in the slot. Spin the rod with the fastest electric drill you have.
                  That's a great idea! Just ordered a roll of sanding cloth, will give it a go in a couple days when it shows up. I only need to remove ~0.2mm from the interior for the inserts to fit properly.


                  -----------------------------------------------------

                  Got the front struts nearly done today.

                  welded up the hole I had to make for chisel access:




                  Cut up some leftover bits and made them into a brace over where I had to cut/weld the one strut:




                  Shortened and welded the upper sections (put a proper bevel in both parts before welding). I see everyone using a pipe cutter for this, but I just scribed a line with my digital calipers and used my angle grinder to cut on one side of it. Worked a treat.






                  Cleaned and primed:




                  And painted. Once it cures I'll put the sleeves back on and then get to cleaning out the interior bores enough for the new inserts to fit. (paint imperfection on the right one fixed after pic).



                  Last edited by Noll; 08-20-2020, 10:59 PM.

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                  • Trust you have the proper length strut inserts(shocks).Your setup is similar to what i did years back. Front inserts will fit the shortened back, and shorter fronts are required.
                    You don't want to have a shock bottom out because the stroke length isn't appropriate. Some manufacturers are using common shocks and varying the spacer tube length on the bottom of it.
                    Make sure the strut cavity has oil in it to the top on your final assembly. The oil creates the cooling medium from the shock to the metal strut.
                    Good to see progress!

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Ont240 View Post
                      Trust you have the proper length strut inserts(shocks). Your setup is similar to what i did years back. Front inserts will fit the shortened back, and shorter fronts are required.
                      You don't want to have a shock bottom out because the stroke length isn't appropriate. Some manufacturers are using common shocks and varying the spacer tube length on the bottom of it.
                      Make sure the strut cavity has oil in it to the top on your final assembly. The oil creates the cooling medium from the shock to the metal strut.
                      Good to see progress!
                      Yep! Using MR2 rears in the front (shortened housings 1.5" to match), and will be using 240z fronts in the rear as you mentioned. Measured 10 times and cut once, and everything measures up length-wise where the gland nuts will snug up at the correct point along the threads. Just need to clean out the insides of the housings and I can put the inserts in for good. I also picked up a cheap cylinder hone tool to use if the previously mentioned sanding-cloth-on-a-stick method doesn't take enough material off, it was 25$ and I can use it for other stuff so I figured why not.

                      Using KYB struts for now because of budget and they're ok enough for the price, and they don't seem to have any lack of travel. I can always get bilsteins or others down the road if I don't like them, not going to worry about that for now though.

                      Roughly followed this for spring perch heights and amount to cut off, measured against my inserts to make sure that 1.5" was still the correct amount to cut in my case and it indeed was. I'm using 5" sleeves as opposed to 7", but i can't imagine I'll be running the suspension high enough for that to matter and can always get longer sleeves if I were to want to.

                      http://dirtys30.blogspot.com/2011/04...ilovers-w.html


                      Got everything as assembled as it can be until I get the inside of the strut tubes cleaned out, loctited the coilover sleeve clamp screws to make sure they don't work loose. On to more engine bay rust work next, and the rear struts at some point.

                      Last edited by Noll; 08-21-2020, 10:54 PM.

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                      • Started taking apart the rear suspension today. Apparently I am the luckiest person alive because both pins came out in under 20 minutes total with just a hammer and punch.




                        Heck, the one in the left is even reusable, which after shipping and import costs probably saves me 80-100$. Was NOT expecting it to be this easy given the horror stories I've heard about the pins and how rusty my car was (plus the fact that it sat outside for ~20 years before I got it). The one on the right had some corrosion and the threads were FUBAR, but after welding on a nut and using my impact to spin it in its bore for a minute to break it free it also tapped right out like nothing.

                        Comment


                        • Ok, I have a bit of an issue and could use some pointers from anyone who has been here before in regards to suspension.

                          I can't for the life of me get the KYB MR2 inserts to fit into my housings.

                          A few old threads mention the MR2 inserts as being a "tight fit" but this is absurd. The 240z fronts I'll be using for the rear fit fine (other than obviously being too long now) - they measure ~42.8mm in diameter whereas the KYB MR2 inserts measure ~43.8mm dia. - even with the 240z inserts having a little bit of play there's not enough extra space for the extra 1mm. I've used a small engine cylinder hone tool to clean up the inside of the tubes just in case there was rust buildup causing issues, but to no avail. In theory I could keep going to remove the extra ~.3 or .4mm I need for the KYB MR2 fronts to fit, but that will take forever and removing material from strut housings doesn't scream "good idea" even if it's minor.

                          I also removed the paint off one of the struts to test, but even with that there's still no way it'll fit.


                          I initially went with the 87-89 KYB MR2 fronts because the Tokico BZ3099's the everyone seems to recommend in old forum threads are very much NLA, and as the KYBs are for the exact same car I figured they would work fine from a dimension standpoint.
                          As you can see here though, the bottom few inches is the "correct" diameter before it steps up for some reason. The 3099's have no such feature.


                          https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...700&cc=1276792


                          At this point it seems like I have a few options.

                          #1 - Monroe MR2 rear inserts
                          https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...935&cc=1276792

                          These don't seem to have the "step" that the KYBs have, although it's a crapshoot as to what the actual diameter is. The specs page also leads me to think the body length could be a tad long (even though they're for the same application as the KYBs?), and, I dunno, Munroe seems like super cheap daily-beater replacement stuff, not sure if they'll be up to snuff for the coilover setup?


                          #2 - 85-86 KYB MR2 inserts
                          https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...587&cc=1276769

                          These seem close in specs (a tad longer in stroke, not sure about body though), and a few old forum threads mention they're a bit narrower although not by how much. Visually they look more"right", and I can always shave down the bottom cone seat if they are a bit too long for my shortened housings.


                          #3 - VW rabbit or 300zx etc shocks

                          Alternatively, I could do some more searching through old forum threads and dig up some other options (and then compare specs to suit). Too short is fine as long as the stroke is long enough still, I can always make a spacer for the housing. Nobody seems to list diameters though, so still a bit of luck as to if they'll be a tad too large in that aspect still.


                          As it stands currently, #2 seems like the best, as they seem the most likely to fit and if they're too tall I can always shave the bottom cones or just return them if the difference is too great. Any other options/thoughts? I guess I could also go for Konis etc, but that's $$$$ I can't really justify spending just yet

                          Comment


                          • A shame you were not working with 280Z struts with the larger dia. housing.
                            Koni shock#P8610-R1149 for a front 240z strut cut 2.0” is what i used years back. It is a race application and adjustable.
                            Don't be afraid to call manufacturers.It's sometimes surprising how helpful they can be.
                            ZX struts are the same dia. as the 240Z.
                            Last edited by Ont240; 08-29-2020, 01:04 AM.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Ont240 View Post
                              A shame you were not working with 280Z struts with the larger dia. housing.
                              Koni shock#P8610-R1149 for a front 240z strut cut 2.0” is what i used years back. It is a race application and adjustable.
                              Don't be afraid to call manufacturers.It's sometimes surprising how helpful they can be.
                              ZX struts are the same dia. as the 240Z.
                              Indeed, that extra 1/8" of diameter would make all the difference. The Konis seem like a good option, all I need to do is make up a .5 spacer for the bottom as my housings are shortened 1.5" total.

                              https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthA...s/Race-Single/

                              The specs page lists the dia as only .3mm smaller than the KYB MR2's, but if you used them in a 240 before I suppose they must juuuuuust fit. The only downside is the price; they seem super nice but going from $45 per insert to $320 per is a bit steep given my current budget (or lack thereof).


                              That's a solid point too, I'll be doing some more research before I make any decision and if there's missing info I need from anywhere I'll definitely make a call or two. Good to know about the ZX diameters, seems they might be a bit long though? Does give me more confidence using the 510 guys' old strut threads for reference as they commonly swap the ZX struts on and modify them.

                              Speaking of, this seems like another solid option that I dug up from an old thread, the dampening could potentially be a bit low due to being in the front of a mid-engined car though? Would still need a small spacer but that's simple and the price is a lot more budget-minded for the time being.

                              1992 Toyota MR2 (SW20 front) Monroe part# 73204
                              Body type: T3
                              Body Length:13.125"
                              Compressed length: 13.625"
                              Extended Length: 20.125"
                              Travel Length: 6.500"

                              For reference my front tubes now measure a hair over 13.5" on the inside (as do the KYB MR2 inserts, the gland nut thread height and top plate brings that to ~13.75 total when mocked up).

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                              • Ok, sent KYB tech support an email to ask for more info about a couple options I think should work - namely the tube diameter and body length. With any luck I'll hear back and one or the other will work, or they'll have another recommendation that will. For reference, the options I've found so far are KYB 363046 and KYB 364014.

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