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Amber 1975 280Z Turbo Build

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  • #46
    I decided to get some TTT upgrades, including bump steer spacers, and front sport brakes and hubs. I have nothing positive to say about TTT. The "stock" shaped hubs did not fit my rims, and needed machining at my expense (100$ locally). The seats on the SS brake lines cracked during installation, and would not seal. I was provided with replacement brake lines, but how can I trust the replacements after the first set cracked.... I cannot advise anyone to deal with TTT.

    Lip machined into hubs to allow my XXR rims to fit. They fit the stock hubs fine.

    Routing of provided brake lines. Note tight angles and that the bulge to the right rubs on the tire

    Crack in the seat of the conical mating surface in the SS brake line. I took care not to over tighten the fitting during installation.

    A 90 degree fitting was provided to give an alternate routing of the SS line, however I could not generate an acceptable path for the hose. It would rub on the tire, or bend at very tight angles during cornering. I wound up sourcing a custom adapter from NPT to 10mm flare, and re-using the stock lines.


    • #47
      Do you know if those are SS brake lines that TTT makes or do they bring them in? Either way, that's a pretty serious screw up.


      • #48
        I don't know if they make them or bring them in, but I agree, an un-acceptable screw up.


        • #49
          After a few summers of the HVAC system not working, I decided to look into it. I found the blower had some strange "fan" thing on it instead of a squirrel cage.

          Replaced with a NOS 280zx motor/impeller, and some fresh paint on the housing. Some cutting and welding for new mounting nuts was needed.

          I took the center bezel/air direction vanes off the dashboard to examine the AC core and found the remains of a mouse and its nest. This explains the funky smell the car has always had, and perhaps why the PO put a new interior in 2 weeks before selling the car.

          The dash came out to fix all the mouse-damaged components, such as this "wet" blower switch

          The air ducts had a horrible odor to them, and were all replaced. The rear of the dash was scrubbed with soap and water, and dis-infected with Lysol

          All the parts are back in place, with new foam seals everywhere. The wiring is not re-connected yet, so I have not been able to test the AC system.
          Last edited by Shane_rbz; 01-06-2016, 01:46 PM.


          • #50
            Winter 2015 was approaching, I took a weekend and insulated my garage.

            Last shot of Amber before she goes away for the winter


            • #51
              I set about collecting all the parts for my turbo swap. This will be an HY35 - the HX35's smaller and quicker spooling sibling - on a 280zxt exhaust manifold. I will be using the engine currently in the car, as it was re-built ~5000kms ago.

              I bought the turbo sight un-seen. The wrecking yard claimed "No shaft play" "No contact of blades to housing!". Upon receiving the turbo, it had noticeable shaft play... The plan is to re-build and try it out. If it doesn't work I will buy a new borg warner 300 SX-E

              Rebuild day:

              Every bolt snapped off in the housing. They were all repaired to the best of my ability with a drill press and tap.

              Re-built CHRA/Core:

              Turbo mounted to the exhaust housing

              The waste gate doesn't have anywhere to mount. I will have to fab something up.

              3" SS tubing for exhaust, and KA24 coffee table

              Magnaflow 3" glass pack muffler. This sucker is huge, I hope it keeps the noise levels down.
              Last edited by Shane_rbz; 12-22-2017, 10:56 PM.


              • #52
                Side project: KA24 Coffee table

                the head is lifted 7" above the block, to get the right height for the glass


                • #53
                  Off with the manifolds, last time for a while I hope. The permatex ultra copper sealant held up well, I don't see any exhaust leaks. The header got welded to the rest of the exhaust to solve a major leak - they will have to be cut appart.

                  Fuel rail removed and cleaned, 660CC injectors from O-Side tiger in, new Aeromotive FPR to cope with the boost.

                  Last edited by Shane_rbz; 01-13-2016, 01:10 PM.


                  • #54
                    Moving along nicely. ANy HP goals?
                    71 240Z: Aluminum 5.3 LS Engine, 4L80e, Twin 67mm Turbos.
                    93 Mustang LX coupe: 4.6 Mod motor conversion


                    • #55
                      Got to see this when it is on the road again. great work!!


                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Speedtospare View Post
                        Moving along nicely. ANy HP goals?
                        Optimistically 350hp at the wheels, realistically, 300 at the crank.

                        Originally posted by Casey_z View Post
                        Got to see this when it is on the road again. great work!!
                        Thanks for the support


                        • #57
                          A cross section of how the P.O. got the exhaust to clear the trans mount :P


                          • #58
                            A test weld on 304SS. I highly recommend Argoshield-Lite from Linde. They had the best customer service by far out of the three big gas vendors, and sold me my own filled cylinder for less than 300$. By comparison, Air liquide wanted 40/mo for tank rental + 200$/fill. Praxair was ~200/yr rental, 80$ per fill, but spent 4 weeks "trying" to get an 80 ft^3 tank in.

                            Aprox. 6 months ago I was convinced I'd need TIG to do this job. I noticed an exhaust shop MIG'ing the SS exhaust of a mini cooper on an episode of Mighty Car Mods, and looked into it. Very glad I did. For 50$/roll of wire, and 70/tank of gas, my tiny master craft MIG welder can do this job just fine.

                            Down Pipe fully welded (2.5" -> 3" with V-Band). I've heard of boost creep with the HX35 and stock waste gate flap. I'm hoping this separate 1.5" pipe positioned right a the waste gate exit will improve waste gate flow so that this is not an issue for me.
                            Last edited by Shane_rbz; 01-31-2016, 08:56 PM.


                            • #59
                              Exhaust tacked to muffler

                              Whole system tacked together

                              Waste Gate Actuator bracket added

                              WG Installed and tested. Works perfect!


                              • #60
                                Wrapped down pipe

                                Turbo/exhaust on

                                Compressor outlet & Oil drain