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240z a.k.a RUST HEAP

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  • 240z a.k.a RUST HEAP

    Picked up my z which at first looked to be in pretty reasonable shape.


    This shortly turned into a nightmare of patch work.

    Got the car mostly stripped down to find out that the roof skin needs replaced. Floor pans have a few layers of steel to them.
    inner rockers are gone outer rockers need to be redone someone did a very poor job on making there own. Both front fenders were junk rotten and oh about 1/2inch of body filler on the whole car lol.

    So where im at now

    Rocker panel in new inner rocker built and installed bottom of the door patched.
    oh Look what a shocker someone covered the rust with tin

    This is what im left with after tin all pulled off. Anyone have decent steel channels for the fresh air vents?

  • #2
    Im planning on cutting out all the rust and replace everything that needs to be replaced with fresh metal. Then im sandblasting the whole chassis so eventually this car will be rust free but its got along way to go.

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    • #3
      Should sandblast first. There will be lots more metal to replace after that. Actually, media blast, or use lots of air and very little sand or the panels will be distorted. Mine was done with a 60 HP compressor so the air kept the metal cool.
      Attached Files
      Eric Zondervan
      72 240Z
      54 Chevy 3100 pickup
      91 Nissan Figaro
      11 Sierra 4X4
      17 Nissan Juke Nismo
      18 Audi SQ5
      18 Polaris Switchback XCR 800
      17 Yamaha FZ-10
      65 Honda Moped

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      • #4
        Thanks for the input and usually I would go about sandblasting first but wont have access to it for awhile so no big deal All major rotted areas are being cut out completely and replaced and anything small that shows up after blasting will be taken care of then.
        Then it will be epoxy primed and body work will be completed then a good surface primer. As a rule of thumb we never use sand on exterior panels other then edges and bottom panels. Quarters ,roof ,fenders, doors all stripped with sanding or chemical. Or a less aggressive media to strip the sensitive panels.

        Comment


        • #5
          I admire your enthusiasm.

          I would have been inclined to find a better starting point.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by 2manyZ View Post
            I admire your enthusiasm.

            I would have been inclined to find a better starting point.
            I second that. It's not yours if you didn't build it.
            Did you ever sell the 260 shell that you have? might be a good time to offer it if you didn't.
            71 510 wagon
            72 CB450
            74 CB360T
            2013 Toyota Corolla
            Formerly 510er
            It's amazing how one tiny capacitor can wreak so much havoc.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hmmm, Unless you can do all the work yourself and you enjoy it? I would look for a nice rust free shell. They are out there and pretty cheap if you are willing to travel, part of the fun.
              But it looks like you gotr a handle on most of it so far.
              Good Luck,
              sigpic
              Dean

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              • #8
                I figured Id take on the challenge I enjoy doing this kind of stuff and I have lots of spare time. To many people discard rotten Z's they are easy to repair if you put the time in.

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                • #9
                  We should start a sins of the previous owner thread here too. That furnace duct tin work is legendary. Did it have a gravelguard coating to make it look presentable? I see light through the floor too. Would that be the floor on the floor in the last picture?

                  I saw an olds cutless 442 that was being restored by an air-frame mechanic not too long ago. Car was rotted from the middle down, no floors or any distinguishable lower body structure left. Doner car flipped and slid on its roof or somethng. He removed the quarter panels and doors then carefully attached the top of the body onto a good floor pan and lower section. When it was done there was no evidence whatsoever that any work had been done at all. Meticulous precice measurement and a real strict attention to detail but then again when you repair airframes that's the only way you know how to do things.
                  71 510 wagon
                  72 CB450
                  74 CB360T
                  2013 Toyota Corolla
                  Formerly 510er
                  It's amazing how one tiny capacitor can wreak so much havoc.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    yes it had a gravel guard coating on it. looked decent till I started tearing into the mess. I cut out the majority of the driver side floor pan already and have a new floor pan ready to go in.
                    I have some trans tunnel fixing to do and some rebuilding to do near the back of the floor and rear suspension.
                    Lol hoping to get this front section of the car buttoned up by the weekend and get back at the floor.

                    No rush to get the car done just doing after work and weekends that I can devote to it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tireburner View Post
                      To many people discard rotten Z's they are easy to repair if you put the time in.
                      Hey Rob, Amen brother, I'm sure you had a look at my Z when you came to p/u the fiberglass fenders.
                      I don't have as much rust as you but still quite a bit. Beautiful work you have done sofar. I also have the rockerguard-air duct tin-tar-rusted original metal syndrome. I'm about a month away from cutting into the rockers. Keep the pics coming, it's nice to know that someone else is covered head to toe with rust and grease.
                      Chris

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                      • #12
                        No shortage of rust nor grease. Thanks again for the fenders.

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                        • #13
                          I applaud the enthusiasim. I don't have the stomach for that kind of restoration any more. I replaced the floors in my 280 twice, and repaired once earlier on...I'm not going there ever again.
                          Good luck!
                          Zen is finding a bolt on your Z that is not rusted solid
                          1981 280ZXT
                          VG30ET Powered 280Z sold and missed
                          Sixteen other various Z's
                          Ontario Z Car Member #002

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                          • #14
                            Well I didn't have time to do much to the car hoping to get some more done tmr. For now here is a update .Whats left after I removed the air duct



                            Lots of trimming and wire wheel treatment left before I start patching.
                            Im thinking I may just add some roll cage tubing for reinforcing and then run a flexible plastic type air duct. Thoughts on this idea?
                            Last edited by tireburner; 12-08-2012, 09:02 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Keep in mind that the Zed was made as uni-body construction. This means that all of that metal you have cut away helps keep the structure of the car straight. Find the original measurements and double check that the body has not sagged. After spending all of that time it would be very disappointing to find that the doors don't close. Keep updating your progress.

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