I started at the wrong end.

[zedfoot]

My steering was getting weird. It started by not returning to centre on right turns, then it got stiff and notchy. I had a Caravan that did this and it was the bearing at the top of the right side strut, so that's where I started. That bearing was ok, so I pulled the other side apart. It was fine too, so I pulled the steering rack out. When I had the rack on the bench ready to open it up, I found it was fine too. I back into the car and turned the steering wheel and that was smooth and easy. Finally narrowed it down to the U joint at the steering rack. Could have removed 3 bolts instead of the entire front suspension. Oh well, I'll finally get the Toyota vented rotor brakes I bought from Nigel years ago installed.
The U joints are not meant to be serviced, and it was impossible to get the disks that hold the rollers in place out, so I had to grind them off. Now I'm concerned the rollers will fall out before I can find a replacement. If that happens, the steering will get awfully sloppy, but at least I will still have control.
Anyone have a spare steering shaft with the welded on U joint I can buy?

[zedfoot]

Laverne mailed me a U joint which he cut off the shaft. It was a fairly easy job to grind the weld off and get it off the shaft, then I ground my worn out U joint off my shaft. The good joint was a really tight fit on my shaft, so a bead of weld made it as good as factory.

[Dr.Diesel]

Eric, nice to see you have that all sorted out. The steering universals wearing out is not that common a problem on vehicles & usually not noticeable because it wears out so gradually. So we adapt to changes in our vehicles without much notice until it becomes obvious there's a problem. At some point some realize there's a lot of play in the steering or in your case not returning to centre. Some vehicles are more prone to this problem than others. Many vehicles have multiple universals in the steering shaft & usually the one that is usually worn out is the lower one by the rack or steering box. I have had to replace a few steering universals during my wrench twisting career. The drivers of those vehicles in most of those cases didn't realize there was a problem until I pointed it out. Anyway, you had a good look at all your components and that's a good thing. Well done. Craig

[zedfoot]

Thanks Craig. In spite all of my efforts, I welded the U-joint on in such a way that the steering wheel is off center and I can't get it back just by using the tie rod end adjustments. I'm about to pull the steering wheel off and just put it back on Center. Some research I did on the forums suggest a toe in of 1/8 of an inch not sure what they're referring to, but I set it up so the front of the tires are 1/8" in from the rear by putting straight edges on the wheels setting them parallel and creating a 1/8 gap at the front between the straight edge and the tire. I realized I would do a better job going right off the rim but I don't have time to make up a jig that would reach the rim.
On a side note, the starter solenoid on the Sea-Doo became erratic. A new one is $60, so my son and I drilled the rivets out of the old one and managed to clean up the contacts and solder that coil wires back to the tabs in about half an hour.

[grannyknot]

Eric, there was a thread on ClasicZ forum lot too long ago about one of the members using a Kawasaki ATV ujoint that is the same size as the OEM ujoint, I'll see if I can find it.

[Dr.Diesel]

If grannyknot can come up with that thread about the steering u joint, that is information worth knowing.

[grannyknot]

Apparently this is the one you want, https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Master-.../dp/B000GZRASO

[zedfoot]

The problem is getting the old one out without destroying the yokes. The caps are pressed in like a core plug then staked. A good machine shop might be able to mill them out, but I don't think there is enough metal there to machine a groove for the snap rings.